29+ Designs how to grade a sewing pattern

With the measurements in my example if I were to grade a pattern for a shirt it might look. When creating grade rules the form is broken up into sections using specific landmarks pictured here.

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Next using a fabric marker or chalk measure 18 out from either side of the bottom piece.

. You simply need paper that is larger than the current pattern piece so you can draw new cutting lines around it. Sleeves and armscyes go hand in hand. It is an arrow with dots.

Grade and blend using the node tool. The patterns opened up a world of fashion and self-expression for me just as I was exploring my aesthetic as a young woman and so I committed to learning to sew. As you can see this would put me in XS for the bust M for the waist and S for the hip.

Instead I would opt to grade between the three sizes. Secure your bottom piece of the pattern about ½ from the bottom of the muslin. Its rare that any of us are one straight size in a sewing pattern.

Watch on whilst Becca gives you the low down. The node tool is on the left menu at the top just under the arrow. Eve Tokens aka The Creative Curator is a fashion designer creative pattern cutter and sewing pattern designerEve graduated with a 21 in Fashion Design from the University of The Creative Arts in the UK has a BTEC diploma in Creative Pattern Cutting a Foundation Degree in Art Design from Wimbledon College of Art and gained extensive experience in the fashion.

In this scenario I wouldnt feel comfortable just cutting out one size. Then look at the slash marks and add up how much total length you added or subtracted from the front and back armscyes. Place your 6 pattern pieces on the muslin like a puzzle.

My vintage sewing pattern collection started when I was about 18. Then each of these sections grows or shrinks according to the brands size chart. Unlike modern sewing patterns the vintage ones usually only ever came in single sizes so I would spend hours trawling through vintage.

Ashley demonstrates using basic copy paper however you can use tissue paper or other pattern paper as well. The paper you choose may depend on the size of pattern. In order to grade a sleeve youd need to first grade the bodice.

Pattern grading in general does not require any fancy tools. When you click on the node tool then on the pattern layer dots or nodes will appear. Place the two pieces that go on either side of the bottom piece and pin in place.

Grading can be a complicated topic but when you break it down the formulas become much more manageable. When you slash your sleeves you need to make sure that the total amount you add to the sleeve cap equals the amount. Select the working layer for the pattern piece that you are on.

Grading between different sizes on a pattern is a really simple adjustment that you can make that can really make a difference in the fit of your garment.

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